Pacific chefs celebrate recognition but there's more 'talent to shine'

Auckland is known as the Polynesian capital of the world, but only a small number of Pacific-owned businesses made a list of the top 100 eateries.

Pacific food business owners say they welcome recognition through the Iconic Auckland Eats programme, but more South Auckland and Pacific food stories deserve a place on the city's culinary stage.

A review of this year's 100-dish Iconic Auckland Eats list by Local Democracy Reporting identified seven South Auckland eateries and a small number of Pacific-owned businesses among those recognised.

Among the Pacific-owned businesses featured were chef Michael Meredith's Metita and Tokos Tacos, the Tongan-owned Avondale eatery founded by Ben Fonua.

Māngere favourite Banh Mi Boy, owned by John Giang, was also recognised.

LDR's review identified two dishes featuring palusami, a traditional Pacific dish of taro leaves baked with coconut cream, among this year's 100 entries - Paua Palusami from Trivet and the Palusami Pie from Pakuranga Bakery.

Pakuranga Bakery's Palusami Pie was recognised in this year's Iconic Auckland Eats programme. Photo/Babiche Martens

Trivet, whose kitchen is led by Samoan chef Uelese Mua, was approached for comment but did not respond before publication.

Meredith said it was encouraging to see Pacific and ethnic cuisines gaining recognition through a programme that celebrated Auckland's food culture.

"The more ethnic Polynesian-focused restaurants come up, I think the more we'll get recognised," he said. "It's a start, so we're going to build on that."

Chef Michael Meredith welcomed recognition of Pacific cuisine through this year's Iconic Auckland Eats programme. Photo/Metita Facebook

Meredith said there was also scope to better showcase smaller food businesses and takeaways by including different categories. He suggested a dedicated "Iconic Street Eats" initiative could help highlight neighbourhood food businesses and local takeaways.

Fonua said Pacific businesses remained underrepresented despite the contribution Pasifika communities made to Auckland's hospitality sector.

"But at the same time, I know the potential is there for the Pasifika people to get a lot more winners."

Fonua said Pacific food businesses had much more to offer Auckland's food scene.

"I really do think as we progress, the talents will shine later on."

Tokos Tacos founder Ben Fonua (left) and his son Kisione Lelea Hikulangi Kae Kaea Fonua at their Avondale restaurant, recognised among this year's Iconic Auckland Eats selections. Photo/RNZ Marika Khabazi

Tātaki Auckland Unlimited director of destination Annie Dundas said Pacific communities made an important contribution to the city's culture, identity and hospitality sector.

"Auckland's food scene reflects the diversity of Tāmaki Makaurau, including the significant contribution Pacific communities make to the city's culture, identity and hospitality sector."

Dundas said Iconic Auckland Eats was a community-driven programme based on public nominations, with Aucklanders and visitors nominating dishes they loved and sharing the stories behind them.

"As a result, the programme showcases the breadth of Auckland's food scene and the many cultures, cuisines and communities that shape it, including the important contribution of Pacific food businesses and traditions."

However, asked whether the programme tracked Pacific representation, Tātaki Auckland Unlimited said it did not formally monitor Pacific-owned businesses or Pacific cuisine as standalone categories.

"We do categorise entries using broad cuisine and food group classifications to understand the diversity of dishes represented across the programme."

Dundas said businesses regularly reported increased visibility and customer interest after being featured, and the programme encouraged Aucklanders and visitors to explore different neighbourhoods.

Giang, whose Māngere eatery has featured on several previous Iconic Auckland Eats lists, and was again among a small number of South Auckland businesses recognised this year, said the recognition provided an opportunity to share his culture through food.

Banh Mi Boy owner John Giang says recognition through Iconic Auckland Eats programme helps showcase Vietnamese street food and South Auckland's diverse food culture. Photo/PMN News/Taelegalolo'u Mary Afemata

"This is my take and me bringing forward my food, my culture, Vietnamese street food to the heart of South Auckland and just for everyone to enjoy."

He said there was still room to create more opportunities for small businesses to share their stories.

When asked what more could be done to support food businesses, he said: "Building more platforms for people who want to get out there and put forward their product, their food, their identity, their culture."

He said many local businesses had strong ideas and unique stories, but often lacked the visibility needed to reach new customers

*This story has been updated to correct the programme name from "Iconic Eats" to "Iconic Auckland Eats" throughout.

LDR is local body journalism co-funded by RNZ and NZ On Air.