Pacific leaders urge more support for South Auckland’s food scene

Auckland’s Iconic Eats list showcases the city’s top 100 dishes, highlighting flavour, memory, and community.

But while Pacific food businesses like Metita and Tala made the 2025 list, leaders and chefs from South Auckland argue that deeper, year-round recognition is vital beyond the spotlight. The list was unveiled by Tātaki Auckland Unlimited (TAU) on behalf of Auckland Council on 16 June.

This year marks the campaign’s fifth anniversary, which attracted a record 3109 public nominations and representing a 67 per cent increase from 2023. The $115,000 council-funded campaign covers marketing, photography, and promotion, with dishes selected by a judging panel based on public nominations.

Despite a strong Pacific presence in Tāmaki Makaurau, only five South Auckland eateries made the list: Ailimteh (Papakura), Banh Mi Boy (Māngere), Izu (Papakura), and Shelley’s Kitchen and Vietnam Café (both in Ōtāhuhu).

Manukau Ward Councillor Lotu Fuli says the outcome is a milestone, especially for local entrepreneurs. “It's a huge win for our Pasifika entrepreneurs who have struggled to get Pasifika cuisine into the mainstream hospitality industry.

“Metita and Tala are wonderful restaurants, and I’ve had the pleasure of dining at Metita many times. It’s also great to see our South Auckland eateries featured - I know Vietnam Café well and have enjoyed delicious pho tai there since my university days.”

Maungakiekie Ward Councillor Josephine Bartley says the issue lies not in a lack of Pacific talent but rather in visibility and reach.

“There are Pasifika in this list, but you can’t always tell because of the names. A lot of the TikTok-famous eateries are here, which shows the power of visibility,” Bartely says. “I went out to Brown Pride Markets in Manukau, and some of the food stalls there were top level.”

Ōtara-Papatoetoe Local Board Chair Apulu Reece Autagavaia agrees that great food doesn’t always make it onto top lists. “Us locals know the spots that may never reach a Top 100 list. So we’d encourage Aucklanders to go beyond what’s presented - ask your workmate in South Auckland or find the best dishes through your local rugby club.”

Tala’s Raw Ramen - a Samoan childhood snack, reimagined. Photo/Babiche Martens/Iconic Auckland Eats

Māngere-Ōtāhuhu Local Board Chair Tauanu’u Nick Bakulich congratulated local favourites Vietnam Café and Banh Mi Boy, saying, “Both are well-run and popular options for our local community.”

One of the chefs recognised this year is Henry Onesemo, whose “Raw Ramen” from fine-dining restaurant Tala was included. He welcomed the honour but stressed the need for more specific recognition of Pacific cuisine.

Still, Onesemo believes the council’s platform needs to evolve. For Onesemo, the recognition is significant but not the ultimate goal.

“It means a great deal and is quite significant. It shows that Pacific and specifically Samoan food is finally evolving from the home kitchen and takeaway container to being recognised and enjoyed at a higher level,” he says.

“It’s a great start to see Pasifika food on the list, but there’s a lot of work to do. There’s not enough specificity and we are often forced into working under multicultural labels such as Pasifika rather than being recognised specifically as Sāmoan, Tongan, Fijian, etc.

“We need a platform that can showcase those little businesses throughout the year, not just at food trucks, night markets or the Pasifika Festival. If I weren’t doing fine dining, nobody would look at me.

“Sometimes I feel like they deserve it more than me, but it’s not lost on us that we’re in a very fortunate position to get something like this.”

Others on the list include Broke Boy Taco, launched by Sean Yarbrough, who moved from San Francisco to Auckland in 2021. His taqueria began as a pop-up inside a burger joint in Mt Eden before expanding to Mount Albert and Birkenhead.

Birria tacos by Broke Boy - from pop-up to Top 100. Photo/Babiche Martens/Iconic Auckland Eats

He credits the support of the Kiwi community for his success. He also praised Auckland Council’s licensing and food safety approach.

“It’s a crazy feeling. When I grew up poor in the middle of Kentucky, I never thought I would have my own taco spot in Auckland. And I for sure didn’t think I would be an award-winning chef.

“A lot of people supported me and kept me going. I think my story touched people’s hearts.

“They weren’t there to punish you - they just wanted everyone to be safe and meet a standard. There are too many places that cook dirty. I think it’s important that everything is clean and regulated.”

Co-owners Mike Sheeran and Peter Matvos, of Hill House Café and Farmhouse Café, both listed in the Top 100 for their savoury scones, attribute the recognition to community support.

Farmhouse Café, which opened in November, is known for its fresh, made-from-scratch meals and produce grown in its garden.

Even though their cafés are in Clevedon and Hillsborough, many of their loyal customers come from South Auckland.

“To have a savoury dish in there instead of a sweet dish was pretty exceptional,” Sheeran says.

Top 100 pick: Hill House Café’s ‘Pimp My Scone – The OG Pimp’. Photo/Babiche Martens/Iconic Auckland Eats

“We don’t own a microwave or a fryer. People are always shocked, but that’s our point of difference. Everything is made fresh on the spot,” Matvos says. “The community really loves that.”

“We still get so many customers from Manurewa. Half the people inside are our old regulars,” Sheeran says. “The city keeps getting all the praise, but the South has really exceptional options.”

In response to calls for broader recognition, Karen Thompson Smith, the head of tourism at Tātaki Auckland Unlimited (TAU), says equity and visibility remain a priority.

To improve representation, TAU partnered with Māori and Pasifika content creators in 2025 and engaged alumni from The Kitchen Project, a social enterprise that supports food entrepreneurs. It also launched Treasures of Tāmaki Makaurau, a digital platform aimed at elevating Māori-owned tourism businesses, including hospitality and indigenous food and beverage experiences.

Metita’s 55-day dry-aged beef with palusami purée - a Top 100 Iconic Eat showcasing Pacific excellence. Photo/Babiche Martens/Iconic Auckland Eats

“The campaign is built around a public nomination process, which invites Aucklanders and food-loving New Zealanders to share their stories. This helps uncover hidden gems - including Pacific and Māori-owned eateries that may not typically receive mainstream attention,” Smith says.

“South Auckland communities, food businesses and local boards played an important role. We gave local board members resources to share nomination details with their networks.”

But for many businesses and leaders, genuine recognition extends beyond just a list. It involves ongoing investment, greater visibility, and a commitment to celebrating the diverse cultures of the Pacific throughout the year.

Click here to find the full list of Auckland’s 100 Iconic Eats for 2025.

LDR is local body journalism co-funded by RNZ and NZ On Air.

This story has been updated to include that Māori-owned tourism businesses, including hospitality and indigenous food and beverage experiences.