New eatery brings chef's Pasifika flair to the forefront

Tucked away in central Tāmaki Makaurau is the newly-opened Trivet Restaurant.

Adding to the growing number of Pacific chefs in Aotearoa is Trivet’s executive chef Uelese Mua, or Chef Wallace.

Born and raised in Tāmaki Makurau, the 37-year-old has Sāmoan heritage and is the youngest of four children.

Ironically, Chef Wallace’s path to becoming a chef happened by chance.

Twenty years later, Chef Wallace is making his mark as a Sāmoan chef incorporating the values and flavours of the Pacific into his work /Photo/PMN News/Candice Ama

“Growing up I wanted to be an artist … I wanted to be a musician or rugby player or sportsman.

“I guess for art and for musician …I didn't want to become a starving artist because at home it's all about community and everyone has to do their part to contribute.

“So chef, I think was a real good halfway point between being able to get a job that was stable and provide a pay, but also still has this artistic side of it that keeps me, I guess, that kept me satisfied.”

His culinary journey started as a dishwasher when he was 17 years old.

Twenty years later, Chef Wallace is making his mark as a Sāmoan chef incorporating the values and flavours of the Pacific into his work.

“My upbringing, you're surrounded by family, you're surrounded by a to'ona'i, you're surrounded by a family.

“So I guess the whole idea of this restaurant was to kind of make it that table at to'ona'i when you're sitting there with your family, or even when you're a kid.

“It's like one of my fondest memories was sitting there with my cousins, we would always sit on the floor while the elders would sit on the table … those memories are stuff that really stuck out to me.”

He says a significant part of his culinary journey was when he received an opportunity to work for renowned chef Gareth Stewart.

Raw bar specialty at Trivet /Photo/PMN News/Candice Ama

He recalled an eight-hour trial preparing tomatoes for Stewart.

Despite the initial rejection, Wallace received a job offer six months later.

In his early 20s, Wallace moved to France and lived there for six years. Initially it was to follow a romantic interest, but later he says he gained life experience, learning speak the French language.

He said this period was influential for him, both personally and professionally.
Now an experienced chef, father, and husband, Wallace attributes his motivation to continuing to thrive for his small family.

“Her [wife] influence on me is really helpful as well. She's really shown me how to keep the balance in my food.

“I think when I was starting off, a lot of my food was really heavy and really dense. She was the one that gave me the feedback about using vegetables and other ingredients to kind of lighten the dishes.”

There have been moments where he wanted to give up but remembering why he started is what keeps him going, Wallace says.

“I guess that's a real important one, is actually enjoying it.

“I love the camaraderie in the kitchen but then I also like the idea of people like watching someone have the food that you've made and then watching their reaction and watching them enjoy it.

“There's been a few times where I have wanted to walk away. I'm glad I didn’t.

“I think it's when those moments happen, it's kind of just remembering why you do it and not getting caught up in if you're having negative emotions about what you do for a living.”

“I think it's when those moments happen, it's kind of just remembering why you do it and not getting caught up in if you're having negative emotions about what you do for a living," said Chef Wallace/Photo/PMN News/Candice Ama

Chef Wallace says he has learned from his culinary experience in France and his family upbringing as a Polynesian and how it has significantly influenced his cooking style.

He values the blend of his cultural background with new influences by experimenting with ingredients and creating dishes that resonate with his memories and heritage.

Why Trivet? A trivet is generally defined as a stand or mat used to protect surfaces from hot pots and pans, keeping countertops or tables safe from heat damage.

Wallace says the meaning behind the restaurant’s name ‘Trivet’ resonates with this kitchenware.

He says it directly correlates to the fa'asāmoa (Sāmoan way) where families are founded on this [trivet], gathering together and protecting one another.

Chef Wallace hopes to own a restaurant with a daytime eatery and a night film industry to capture the essence of his life’s work and hidden interest in multimedia.

He urges aspiring chefs to be patient and continue learning, stressing that the culinary field is vast and always evolving.

He encourages chefs to challenge themselves rather than become too comfortable in one place.

“For any chef, it's just being real patient. Sometimes you want things really quickly.

“Take those baby steps and build that foundation first. And even myself, I'm saying that as long as I've been cooking, there's this much to know about cooking and I still only know that much after 22 years.

“It's always going to be learning. Also there are a lot of real talented Polynesian chefs.

“For us it's real familiar to get into a place that's real comfortable and not challenge yourself. So I guess, be constantly challenging yourself.”

Trivet opened its doors on 15 August and is located at 22 Albert Street. It caters for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

For more information follow their website Trivet