How the best pies in New Zealand are judged

New Zealand has the best pies.

So argues every New Zealander and there’s no doubt the pie is embedded into Kiwi identity. Some might even say it’s our pie-dentity.

Over 5000 pies from Invercagill to Kaitaia enter into The Bakels New Zealand Supreme Pie Awards, deemed the biggest food competition in the Southern Hemisphere and compete to be the country’s number one pie.

Chief judge Tim Aspinall says the competition’s winner not only gets bragging rights, but the recognition is “life changing”.

Judges sample on average 35 pies across 11 categories. Photo/PMNNews

If you’re looking for the best pie in Aotearoa, you’ll need to book a flight to Te Waipounamu, South Island, where Arlyn Thompson from Rangiora Bakery in North Canterbury took out the 2024 Supreme Pie Award for her slow-cooked Sumatra-style beef pie.

Thompson is the second female baker to win top spot in the award’s 26-year history.

The Judging Process

All pies are given a number so they are judged blindly and they’re marked on their visual elements first.

Judges award points based on presentation, shape, and even bake, pastry finish, filling, ratio, texture, and smell.

The top ranking pies then move on to the all important tasting round, where judges sample hundreds of pies across 11 categories. Each section will have bronze, silver, and gold placings and the Supreme Award chosen from the gold finalists.

Final taste tests in the mince and cheese tie-breaker. Photo/PMNNews

Steak and cheese pie Judge Ian Moore, who has 40 years of experience as a baker, said judging the Kiwi classic was about every bit being the best bite.

“I’m looking for that steak to be nice and tender, (to) break up in your mouth so you know it’s been cooked nice and slowly. You don’t want to be chewing on it too long obviously.

“And you still want to get a good bite of cheese in there, not too dry and a bit of gravy in there as well.”

Judge Ian Moore sampling a steak and cheese entry. Photo/PMNNews

Judge Matt Chin said the key to a good looking pie is in the pastry.

“I’m looking for a nice even lift of the pastry with a nice sheen on the top and for it to be nice and flaky. I like the flake.”

During the taste tests of the bigger categories such as the mince and cheese, steak and cheese, or some chicken selections, judges can sample around 50 pies.

That’s equivalent to about eight whole pies by the end of the day.

Mince and cheese pie judging. Photo/PMNNews

Sometimes the difference between the good and the best is by the smallest of margins so the adjudication process is done by a points system.

The top counts for six points, eight points for the base, overall appearance is 12 points, the filling visual is eight points.

Moore says the tasting round where the flavour counts for 16 points is crucial to the pies final placing.

“So it’s worth a lot of points that flavour because at the end of the day that's what you’re eating.”

Vegetarian pie judges (from L - R) Tracey Bartlett, Bosun Paki, and Kylie Sutherland. Photo/PMNNews

The vegetarian pie section is growing every year and judge Tracey Bartlett says there are some interesting flavour combinations that enter.

So with a wide range of vegetarian options, they narrow it down to a balanced bite.

“Colour is really important actually and not massive pieces of potato or pumpkin because who wants to take a bite and just get all potato?”

Bartlett says that while the description and ingredients might sound promising, pies need to pass the visual test first.

PMN spoke to her while she was judging a Mexican-flavoured non-contender as she pointed out the faults.

“The marks of the tray on there (the bottom of the pie), it’s not meant to have that. It’s got no flakiness lift here (on the top). It’s also sunken in and potentially a bit overcooked on the top which means it’s going to be a little bit dry.”

The dissection of a Mexican-flavoured pie entry that didn't pass the visual judgind round. Photo/PMNNews

She smells the pie and says, “It possibly would taste quite good but because none of these other things are right it won’t get into the finals.

“If you don’t pass on all of these other things like pie bottom, visual presentation, all of that, you don’t get anywhere.”

Mince and cheese pie judge Pippa Haliday says for those of us who aren’t qualified judges but perhaps more opinionated consumers, the best way to judge how good a pie is - is by how fast you finish it.

Bakers showcase their pastry art in the competition. Photo/PMNNews

NZ verses The Aussies

It’s an age-old battle with our neighbours across the ditch, whether it’s rugby or food there is always a question on who does it best.

Tony Wilksch is Australian-born who works in an NZ Woolworths’ bakery and is 100 per cent disowning his home country’s pastries.

“The fact that we use cheese over here. What I’ve noticed since being over here is that the pies are so much better like top-tier I reckon.

“Not even close. Not a competition.”

Judge Tony Wilksch, who;s originally from Australia, says NZ pies are miles ahead of Aussie ones..

Bakels NZ Team Leader Kevin Marshall says the meat ratio in our pies is what makes them incomparably top-tier.

“The generosity of the meat. Sometimes you go overseas to Australia in particular and their pies don’t have as much meat content as ours, they don’t even come close.”

Ralph Thorogood believes the NZ Supreme Pie Awards is a cut above the rest.

“I met an Australian baker last year and he said they do something very similar but I definitely think this is way more high profile.”

Pies are given a number and blindly judged in the contest. Photo/PMNNews

Why do we love the pie?

“We’re just hugely passionate about it.”

That’s what Judge Ralph Thorogood says about the quality of New Zealand pies.

He thinks it’s the “versatility” of a pie that has “stood the test of time”.

“It’s become a real staple in the winter, it’s good home comfort food. It’s filling, it’s satisfying. You can walk in, choose a pie and go. You can eat it quickly and be on your way.”

A symbol of the pull is baked on top of a steak and cheese entrant. Photo/PMNNews

Chief Judge, sculpter, and bakery owner Tim Aspinall, who grew up in Tolaga Bay on the East Coast, says for him the pie is nostalgic and it encompasses the best memories of his parents’ cooking.

“It’s old school. A pie is a special thing. The best pie I’ve ever had was my mum’s apple pie - she makes a mean as apple pie.

“Of course you’ve got to have a meat pie and my favourite is the mince pie. Of course mum and dad both made me mince pie so that brings back memories.”

It’s arguably always pie season and whether you blow on your pie, or fully send it, have it with or without sauce, it’s a staple icon of New Zealand food culture.

Watch the full interview with NZ Bakels managing director Brent Kersel on Pacific Days.